It's been a week since I've been in Dublin, and although I only spent about 3 and a half days there following London, I can not WAIT until I get another chance to go back.
They call Ireland "the land of a thousand welcomes", and I feel the need to PASSIONATELY corroborate that claim. EVERYONE we met in Dublin was nice, and they were all sincerely interested in how we were enjoying Dublin. **Alas, my camera battery died at this point in our trip from its shameless abuse in London, so I'm stealing a few Dublin pics from my friends for this post.**
Ok, quick overview: our brief stay in Dublin consisted of historical tours/sites by day, and traditional Irish music and pubs by night. It was the perfect mix of history and culture.
On our first night, we went on a "Traditional Irish Music Pub Crawl" that began at Gogarty's pub.
It was excellent. Two native Dublin musicians took us through some of their favorite local pubs. We'd climb upstairs usually, to emptier rooms, to allow them to play sets of jigs and reels. Between sessions, they'd intermittently explain the origins of Irish dance music and how all the different instruments associated with it came into play. (pun intended)
This youtube video isn't from the night we were there, but Eugene essentially gave the same spiel, if you're interested:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipX55sCSjVUSO FUN. The next night we asked Eugene, one of the musicians from the crawl, where we could find similar pubs that would play live music (definitely not interested in night clubs that bump American music...I mean, gotta soak up culture while you can!) And Eugene informed us that he'd be playing in Mercantile until 9 and then after that we could head over to Devitt's, to hear a group of musicians (including his father, Jerry, on accordion(!!!)) play late into the evening. So of course we did this.
They say in Dublin, if you're at a pub for at least an hour, someone you don't know WILL come over to say hi (if not everyone there).
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To toast in Ireland, you say "Sláinte!" which means "good health"
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We met so many people, young and old! Eugene told us that even though the stereotype of Ireland stipulates that everyone is incredibly friendly, it is of his opinion, that really--everyone is just nosy. (Ha!!!) And I can't disagree with him there....because everyone I spoke to at Devitt's was insanely interested in:
-where I was from
-how long I'd be in Dublin
-where I was going
-what I was doing
-where I studied
-and of course, detailed information on my Irish heritage (which, sadly I couldn't articulate satisfyingly to a certain Liam Hurley, who was convinced he could trace my family's Irish name to a particular region in Ireland.)
So anyways, we introduced ourselves at Devitt's, to Jerry (Eugene's dad). ...and sorry I keep using these names-- I feel like I know them and that you should all too...even though of course you've never met these people. Anyhow....
we introduced ourselves to Jerry during a pause between their sessions, and told him how we met his son on the music pub crawl and that we loved Irish music. Jerry became especially excited when he found out that the 3 of us were all music majors. We had to explain in depth how I play the horn and that Julia and Liesl sang. Jerry was kind enough to give us a free CD of their Irish music that they usually charge 15 Euros for, so we could have it "for the memories". Not sure how frequently I'll choose this music on my iPod, but it was incredibly sweet of him.
Another tradition I should mention now, is that the Irish love to sing. Most of their music is instrumental dance music: jigs (in 3) and reels (in 4). They only stamp their feet, or introduced a Bodhran (Irish drum) in recent years as a result of the decline in dancing. (Because usually the pounding of the dancers' feet would keep time!) But when they're not playing energized jigs or reels, one of the musicians will sing a song--typically an Irish or Scottish ballad, and the entire pub will get quiet and respectfully listen. It's really remarkable to see. They like asking strangers to sing as well--preferably a song from their home-country or hometown. So.......yes, before you ask, I sang in an Irish pub!! Strangely, the only song that came to mind, and that I comfortably could remember the words to was Carole King's "You've got a Friend" (Hope you're proud, mom!!) It was so fun, several of the old coots in the pub knew the song and sang along as well! I've just never experienced anything like it.
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| (This is me, dancing to Irish music...or maybe it's Kate Winslet. Can't remember) |
I've truly gained such a new appreciation for Irish music. Before this trip, I wasn't familiar with much Irish music, to be honest...outside of the movie, Titanic. (AND TOTALLY RECOGNIZED THAT JIG WHEN THEY PLAYED IT, BY THE WAY). To me, a lot of Irish music sounded the same...and maybe still does.
But watching the musicans play and communicate--they look like they're having So much fun--is really inspirational to see. Coming from a classically-oriented music world where intonation, rhythm, accuracy, and the like, are so meticulously worked on and calculated, it's refreshing to see musicians playing music for themselves and their enjoyment, and not being worried about "concert perfection". The energy and joy they exude is infectious.
Ok, now lets get to the history part! (If you're still actually reading. Hi, mom) The second day in Dublin, consisted of a 3-hour walking tour of the city. We saw their Parliament building, turned quickly into a bank when England decided Ireland didn't need a Parliament), we saw the Dublin castle, several old churches, sites where Vikings landed, (and where parking garages now stand), and Trinity College! Which houses the Book of Kells! Confession: I didn't want to pay 9 Euros to go see a pretty book, so instead I went in the bookstore and bought Oscar Wilde and James Joyce novels. From what I heard, the Book of Kells was incredible. And from my limited knowledge of it, it's a New Testament manuscript created by Celtic monks around the year, 800.
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| This is me standing awkwardly in front of Trinity College. |
But my favorite part of all, was going to see Newgrange, a Neolithic tomb, about an hours' drive outside of Dublin, that is 5,200 years old!!!! It's older than the Pyramids of Giza!There was a really incredible exhibit on its history at the center, and then we took buses to the actual tomb. What incredible architecture. All the inside was original stone, and rain hasn't leaked inside once.
Also, it was nice to see some green grass and sheep. (AND baby lambs!!!) Being in cities is exciting, but fresh air smells nice too. :)
These are some pictures Julia took of Newgrange:
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| Walking up to Newgrange. Over the years, grass completely grew over the outer wall, but for the exhibit's sake, was uncovered in the 60s. |
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| If you circle around Newgrange you can see other smaller, similar tombs in the distance! |
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| Cool spiral carvings! |
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| The entrance! The window above the door is the only source of light into the tomb. The tomb faces this direction and the walled pathway inside is angled specifically so that on the winter's solstice, the inside is completely flooded with light for about 17 minutes. Awesome. |
I apologize for the incredibly long post. (Can you tell I liked Dublin???) Feel free to skim it--I shall take no offense!
